After weeks and weeks with barely any surf, the last week and a half have been good to us on the South End of Lake Michigan. Those with flexible schedules and local knowledge have scored 8 days of waves in the last 11, quickly helping us to forget about the horrible summer of surf (or, lack of) that we've had.
Jim Hoop called me this morning to wish a happy birthday. "To whom?", I asked. "To the South End Surf Club. It was fifteen years ago to the day that we started it, bro." Jim is one of these guys who keeps meticulous records of every swell, every session, and almost every new surfer he meets. He was calling all of the members to let them know. I thought that was pretty cool.
So to all of the South End wave junkies, and the characters that have made surfing here so unique, happy birthday. I'm looking forward to many more.
8/31/09
8/26/09
Next, Please!
One of the most important aspects of surfing in my mind, and something that has always drawn me to this pursuit, is diversity. There are so many ways to ride a wave now. With an open mind, the possibility of ever getting bored with surfing is nil.
Two of the more well documented and recently popular ways to catch a wave are on an SUP and an alaia. Of course, some people get into it and others don't - whatever. No one is here to judge, and as the old saying goes, "whatever floats your boat." I'm not going to be the one casting stones.
Of course, most people do one or the other at a time; that is, catch a wave on an alaia or an SUP. I bet you haven't seen someone do both...on the same wave.
A new fad? Looks fun to me.
Two of the more well documented and recently popular ways to catch a wave are on an SUP and an alaia. Of course, some people get into it and others don't - whatever. No one is here to judge, and as the old saying goes, "whatever floats your boat." I'm not going to be the one casting stones.
Of course, most people do one or the other at a time; that is, catch a wave on an alaia or an SUP. I bet you haven't seen someone do both...on the same wave.
A new fad? Looks fun to me.
8/21/09
Wise Words
One of my favorite quotes comes from one of the most stylish surfers of all time; Gerry Lopez. After years of making surfing one of the world's most difficult waves look easy, G Lo moved to the mountains to pursue the 1,000 foot bottom turn on frozen H20.
He said, "A wave is where you find it."
I like it because I surf on the Great Lakes, and we know all about having to find our waves. It's not easy. Sure, you can roll down to the beach when the wind is up and find some crappy, disjointed, washing machine crap in onshore conditions. That's easy. What's hard is finding something worth surfing. Something that any surfer with soul, with passion, who understands the meaning of trim and speed, of finding energy in the pocket of a wave (no matter how big), would enjoy surfing.
Would you believe that 50 miles of fetch can deliver that wave? Sure, it may only be waist high with a little wind wobble on it, but it happens to be peaking and curling over a finely groomed sandbar. It also happens to be coming from the ideal direction, refracting just enough around the pier to filter the short period chop, and lining up quite nicely while zipping off a 50 yard left and a 30 yard right.
After weeks without surf and a summer with only a small handful of days, the waves are starting to come. A short jaunt up the coast delivers you to this wave and it's shared by only you and a small group of friends. It's warm, the sun and setting are beautiful, and you're geeked out of your gourd because that little right is setting up perfectly for a walk to the nose and a few precious seconds of what brings you so much happiness. And they keep coming, and coming, and coming, for three straight hours. Then, they keep coming, but you're too beat to keep going so you head home feeling a lot better than you did when you arrived.
G Lo is a wise man.
He said, "A wave is where you find it."
I like it because I surf on the Great Lakes, and we know all about having to find our waves. It's not easy. Sure, you can roll down to the beach when the wind is up and find some crappy, disjointed, washing machine crap in onshore conditions. That's easy. What's hard is finding something worth surfing. Something that any surfer with soul, with passion, who understands the meaning of trim and speed, of finding energy in the pocket of a wave (no matter how big), would enjoy surfing.
Would you believe that 50 miles of fetch can deliver that wave? Sure, it may only be waist high with a little wind wobble on it, but it happens to be peaking and curling over a finely groomed sandbar. It also happens to be coming from the ideal direction, refracting just enough around the pier to filter the short period chop, and lining up quite nicely while zipping off a 50 yard left and a 30 yard right.
After weeks without surf and a summer with only a small handful of days, the waves are starting to come. A short jaunt up the coast delivers you to this wave and it's shared by only you and a small group of friends. It's warm, the sun and setting are beautiful, and you're geeked out of your gourd because that little right is setting up perfectly for a walk to the nose and a few precious seconds of what brings you so much happiness. And they keep coming, and coming, and coming, for three straight hours. Then, they keep coming, but you're too beat to keep going so you head home feeling a lot better than you did when you arrived.
G Lo is a wise man.
8/18/09
Great Lakes Surfer
If you are into surfing on the Great Lakes, or interested in it, you'll want to check out Chicago surfer Mike Killion's online magazine called Great Lakes Surfer.
Mike has poured his heart into this thing so far and it has paid off in the form of issue #2. with contributions from various brethren, it looks pretty rad and is well worth the $5 cover price. You can preview and purchase at http://greatlakessurfer.com/.
Mike has poured his heart into this thing so far and it has paid off in the form of issue #2. with contributions from various brethren, it looks pretty rad and is well worth the $5 cover price. You can preview and purchase at http://greatlakessurfer.com/.
8/4/09
Modern Surfmen
I remember Bob "Aquadoc" Beaton, long time Great Lakes surfer and historian, recalling tales of the old "Surfmen" - surf and beach safety personnel in the early 19th century who were known for saving the lives of countless people. The equivalent of today's lifeguards, I suppose.
Unfortunately, we are missing the latter at most public beaches in the Great Lakes these days. That, the lack of serious education among the general public, and very real danger in the form of heavy rip currents on big wind and wave days combine to be an often deadly mix.
This is where surfers have, do, and will continue to be an invaluable asset to their local communities.
Case in point: Saturday August 1, 2009 in Grand Haven, Michigan - South winds to 30 knots and heavy pier bounce waves create a predictable rip that sucks straight out off the pier. As reported by the local TV station, here's what happened next.
Unfortunately, we are missing the latter at most public beaches in the Great Lakes these days. That, the lack of serious education among the general public, and very real danger in the form of heavy rip currents on big wind and wave days combine to be an often deadly mix.
This is where surfers have, do, and will continue to be an invaluable asset to their local communities.
Case in point: Saturday August 1, 2009 in Grand Haven, Michigan - South winds to 30 knots and heavy pier bounce waves create a predictable rip that sucks straight out off the pier. As reported by the local TV station, here's what happened next.
The preferred dress and mode of transportation have changed, but little else has in the decades since this photo was taken; for some, the lure of heavy water is simply too hard to resist.
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